New van

Having become sick of buses, we decided to rent a 'wicked' van. Despite the reputation these things have back in Australia, that being ugly and unreliable pieces of shit driven by dirty backpackers, we decided to roll the dice on one. Our first option was a van painted exactly the same as the Scooby Doo van, no thanks, decided to take the plain white one. The best part being it's only got 100km on the clock and is brand new. Despite handling like a shopping trolley, we are pleasantly surprised. We spent last night on a beach front in a town called Tongay. Today was spent in Northern chiles wine region. Tomorrow we attempt to cross into Argentina. The border crossing being 5000 metres high, that's 16404 feet on the old scale. Can a van actually go that high? I am attempting to break the world record of the highest altitude that a wicked van has actually been.

                                                  The drive through the Elquie valley wine country

The wheels ... Feel so dirty.

First night's camp spot.

On route to Elqui Pisco

The vineyards lunch 1500 metres

Goodbye Santiago, you thieving bastards

Well, our first security breach occurred last night. A school hockey team happened to be staying in our hostel. Woke up early this morning to find our bag, complete with passports, camera, credit cards etc was gone. Suspected the teenagers of lifting it, so in a last minute CSI operation, we demanded the hostel produce security tapes, which we viewed this morning. The culprit turned out to be the team coach! You can imagine our rage as the tape show him pluck the back from next to me on the couch then rifle through it while I check emails. The dirty grub got a wake up knock at 830 this morning after the hostel checked his room number. He produced the bag and the goods, which he claimed to be minding for me. Was there violence? It was imminent, but the calming influence of  a certain woman prevailed. We are now in a self-contained apartment at the hostel's expense. In other news it's movember here in Chile and I have done all I can to fly the Australian flag. Adios.

                                                   I look like a normal Chilean teenager

                                                      Our new digs, crime does pay.

Santiago

We arrived in the Chilean capital hoping for a few days of R and R. It's much warmer here. It's a beautiful city surrounded by mountains. There are lots of parks, gardens and a pretty thriving cafe scene. We are staying in Bella Artes a district near centro. It's a hip and happening scene. Santiago is vibrant and pretty busy, overall a really impressive city. Tonight we are sampling the Bellavista district for dinner and drinks.

The Santiago skyline 

Bella vista 

Punta Arenas

We arrived in Punta Arenas after a three hour bus ride, a semi small city on the Magellan Strait looking down at Antarctica. It's cold here, and bleak, but we found what may be the best burger joint in South America. Lomit's is an old school burger joint where chefs flip burgers while you sink pints.

                                                               Our burgers cook

The Magellan Strait Antarctica is a three hour flight

Let's go.

The main strip, the yellow building is our digs.

Puerto Natales.

A little town where all the houses are made of corrugated iron, and a pastel of different colours. Basically a gateway to the national park, for some reason despite it having very few attractions,we really liked it. Sits on a lake with snow capped peaks in the background, it's got some cool restaurants and bars. Have been staying in a hostel, which is really just a B and B. Lovely  little place run by ma and pa. We were told to go to bed last night as it was midnight, and far too late to be out of bed, despite only watching a movie. Fair enough.

                                                  The view from the hostel over the Lago.

J Lo in the lounge room

Torres del Paine

After weeks of planning and preparation, we finally arrived at Torres del Paine, and it didn't disappoint. The weather didn't play along, but we had one perfect day, and that's enough. Day one 96km hour winds and driving rain, we set out from Los Torres, but gave up after an hour and returned to camp, impossible conditions. Day two was a contrast, sunny, blue sky, no wind, thank you hiking gods. We set out for the Italian camp site, a lazy seven hour hike, stopping along the way at Cuernos camp. Both carrying 15 kilos, and some serious uphill climbs, it was not easy. Cuernos was simply amazing, what a location, have never seen its equal, it seemed surreal walking into such a spot. Waterfalls, the snow capped peaks, and a little bar on the hill. Stopped for a break, before the last 2 hours uphill to the Italian camp site. Nothing was left in the tank, were it not for the South American boot camp instructor Bellinda Kontominas, we would not have made it. Torres del Paine has taught me one thing, I am old.  

Camp site day one

Lunch on route to Cuernos day two

The Italian camp site

Minus two or three who cares

Calafate

A day of R and R and some Argentinian cuisine. We have secured ourselves a pretty groovy hostel with a restaurant and disco, where the plebs, ie hostel patrons can look down on those rich customers paying for their food. We splurged last night but didn't stay for the disco.

                                                             Yes this is all mine.

                           Homemade pasta from the cheap seats, looking down on the restaurant.

Lago Del Desierto

Yesterday's 25km hike just didn't satisfy us, why not cycle 40km back from Chile to el Chalten the next day for a wind down. We were dropped at Lago Del Desierto with bikes and given the afternoon to get back to town, which seemed pretty easy, nope. The road was unpaved, rocky, and seriously rough. Even though promised a tailwind, it was tough, very tough. The view was incredible but the last hour we didn't even notice, all focus was on making it back before dark, dark here by the way is at 10.30 pm.

                                          The Lago Del Desierto, what an amazing spot.

                                                      On the Road Back toEl Chalten

Our lunch stop.

El Chalten - Hike to Lago Del la Tres

El Chalten is the Gore Tex capital of South America, on the border with chile, it's surrounded by stunning mountains and is the home to all things hiking and outdoorsy. The sentinal standing watch over the valley is the imposing mount Fitz Roy. Day one we decided to hike to Lago Del la Tres, followed by the ascent to the base of mount Fitz Roy, the peak of which stands at 2050m. The hike was a lazy 25km round trip, with a 750 metre ascent. On paper, a walk in the park for two fitness gurus. In reality, far from anything close to easy, the last 400 meters took more than an hour

                                                       The gentle part of the trail

The Fitz Roy range, mount Fitz Roy left.

Made it, with nothing left.

Perito Moreno

Today we hit the Perito Moreno glacier, and on the way visited our first estancia in Patagonia, which is essentially a working farm. We woke to a light dusting of snow, and freezing morning, but  we we're not expecting the conditions to be as bad as they were. Driving snow, sub zero temperatures, and gale force wind. Seriously tough day, but well worth the effort, what an incredible spot. A tip, when in Patagonia, don't wear converse, still defrosting the toes. Watched large chucks of the glacier crashing into the lake, an amazing sight.

                             Bel and Ranger the goat, on route to the Perito Merino glacier.

                                                        Bel at the Perito merino glacier

El Calafarte

Finally made it to Patagonia, the first stop, El Calafate. A picturesque village on the gringo trail to chile. It's cold here, cold like Cooma mid winter, and yet it's summer here. Wind howling straight off the mountains, and  dust fills the air.  The sun is out though so we can't complain. El Calafate is a great little town, again, chocolate shops abound, chocolate is now a part of our daily diet. Tomorrow we head to the Perito Moreno glacier, which is apparently a must see here. Despite the 28 hour bus ride over unsealed roads to get here, we remain upbeat.

                                                       The terrain on route to Patagonia

                                   The Andes loom in the distance, soon we'll be hiking here

                                        El Calafate walking to the water, it's a little bit windy.

Bariloche

The Bariloche weather has been terrible , sleet wind, and snow. The bike ride around Circuito Chico was cancelled due to poor weather. Spent the day walking around the lake and trying to stay dry. Have seen some beautiful houses and stunning landscape. Tomorrow we leave for el chaltam. We will miss Bariloche, it's a beautiful town with more chocolate shops than people.

                                          One of the many beautiful houses here in Bariloche

                                                         The museum of Patagonia

Bariloche

Well arrived in Bariloche, a small alpine town on the shores of lake Nahuel Huapi in Argentina. We have experienced bus travel in South America for the first time, and it was a pleasant surprise. Big reclining seats to almost horizontal, in travel entertainment, and our own man servant. A relaxing, but somewhat slower way to see the country. The journey down was magic, desert landscape, jagged peaks, and a road that followed a crystal clear river to the shores of Bariloche. It's absolutely freezing, how can it be summer? Have thermals, beanie, and gloves on.Have walked the town, and it's a pretty touristy ski chalet type area, with lots of bars and meat serving eateries. We plan to cycle the Circuito Chico route tomorrow, weather permitting, and see the snow capped peaks and shores of this huge lake. Adios amigos.

Primo Palermo

By far our favourite suburb in BA. On Sunday the markets in the main square were in full gear with stalls selling everything from woven shawls to jewellery to designer dog jackets. There's a cafe, restaurant, bar or boutique shop on every corner. A great suburb to stroll and people watch.

One of the funky boutiques

People watching in Palermo

The suburb also has lots of parks - here we are at the botanical gardens.

There's also a Japanese garden and countless other parks. In Buenos Aires it's not unusual to see dog walkers with more than 10 animals on leashes. But the downside is there's dog poo everywhere so you have to watch where you step, even on footpaths.

Tomorrow afternoon we will hop on a bus down south to Bariloche. It's a 20-hour trip but there's food and drinks on board plus videos, a toilet and the all-important reclining seats!

Will post again when we get there. 

Cementerio de la Recolata

The final resting place of Eva Peron. Just an incredible place, some investment in crypts that go past anything we have seen before. Some however needed some work, and were not even closed.

                                                              Here's one that was open

Palermo

Visited the suburb of Palermo yesterday, one of the more revered suburbs here famed for its nightlife and bar scene. Unfortunately the weather was terrible, and nothing was open. Reminded us of Surry Hills, dress shops and homewares, leafy streets and hipsters. Normally this is what it looks like.

                                 
                                          Palermo and its famed nightlife, currently closed.