The Death Zone Border Crossing

Having made the choice to cross back into Argentina, we were confronted with the challenge of what may be the world's highest road. It also turned out to be unsealed, rough, and only suitable for 4WDs. Was the wicked van up to it? Of course it was! More than that, it dominated. Despite being overtaken by Touregs, Cayennes and Turbo Landcruisers. I think a 1964 model Renault actually overtook us at one point. We came through unscathed, over what can only be described as five hours of scenic beauty, but driving hell. Being at 16000 feet is not pleasant, in fact, it's horrible. Difficulty walking some mild hallucinations, and Bellinda kept falling into a coma, at one stage we thought the Care Bears were in the car. Only 20 minutes or so at the top and we were then forced to start descending. Then, we saw something that shocked us both. We passed some 50 year old Germans on mountain bikes ascending at over 4500 metres. They were attempting the 200 km trip uphill at altitude! Why? I asked them and they said nien fruschtuk.....I think that means no breakfast. It was incredible, but beyond most normal road trips....see for yourself.

On route to Agua Negra Pass

Toureg country 3000 metres.

The climb ahead.

 The border crossing 4800 metres.

The descent begins from 5000 metres

Our German friends at over 4000.

New van

Having become sick of buses, we decided to rent a 'wicked' van. Despite the reputation these things have back in Australia, that being ugly and unreliable pieces of shit driven by dirty backpackers, we decided to roll the dice on one. Our first option was a van painted exactly the same as the Scooby Doo van, no thanks, decided to take the plain white one. The best part being it's only got 100km on the clock and is brand new. Despite handling like a shopping trolley, we are pleasantly surprised. We spent last night on a beach front in a town called Tongay. Today was spent in Northern chiles wine region. Tomorrow we attempt to cross into Argentina. The border crossing being 5000 metres high, that's 16404 feet on the old scale. Can a van actually go that high? I am attempting to break the world record of the highest altitude that a wicked van has actually been.

                                                  The drive through the Elquie valley wine country

The wheels ... Feel so dirty.

First night's camp spot.

On route to Elqui Pisco

The vineyards lunch 1500 metres

Goodbye Santiago, you thieving bastards

Well, our first security breach occurred last night. A school hockey team happened to be staying in our hostel. Woke up early this morning to find our bag, complete with passports, camera, credit cards etc was gone. Suspected the teenagers of lifting it, so in a last minute CSI operation, we demanded the hostel produce security tapes, which we viewed this morning. The culprit turned out to be the team coach! You can imagine our rage as the tape show him pluck the back from next to me on the couch then rifle through it while I check emails. The dirty grub got a wake up knock at 830 this morning after the hostel checked his room number. He produced the bag and the goods, which he claimed to be minding for me. Was there violence? It was imminent, but the calming influence of  a certain woman prevailed. We are now in a self-contained apartment at the hostel's expense. In other news it's movember here in Chile and I have done all I can to fly the Australian flag. Adios.

                                                   I look like a normal Chilean teenager

                                                      Our new digs, crime does pay.

Santiago

We arrived in the Chilean capital hoping for a few days of R and R. It's much warmer here. It's a beautiful city surrounded by mountains. There are lots of parks, gardens and a pretty thriving cafe scene. We are staying in Bella Artes a district near centro. It's a hip and happening scene. Santiago is vibrant and pretty busy, overall a really impressive city. Tonight we are sampling the Bellavista district for dinner and drinks.

The Santiago skyline 

Bella vista 

Punta Arenas

We arrived in Punta Arenas after a three hour bus ride, a semi small city on the Magellan Strait looking down at Antarctica. It's cold here, and bleak, but we found what may be the best burger joint in South America. Lomit's is an old school burger joint where chefs flip burgers while you sink pints.

                                                               Our burgers cook

The Magellan Strait Antarctica is a three hour flight

Let's go.

The main strip, the yellow building is our digs.

Puerto Natales.

A little town where all the houses are made of corrugated iron, and a pastel of different colours. Basically a gateway to the national park, for some reason despite it having very few attractions,we really liked it. Sits on a lake with snow capped peaks in the background, it's got some cool restaurants and bars. Have been staying in a hostel, which is really just a B and B. Lovely  little place run by ma and pa. We were told to go to bed last night as it was midnight, and far too late to be out of bed, despite only watching a movie. Fair enough.

                                                  The view from the hostel over the Lago.

J Lo in the lounge room

Torres del Paine

After weeks of planning and preparation, we finally arrived at Torres del Paine, and it didn't disappoint. The weather didn't play along, but we had one perfect day, and that's enough. Day one 96km hour winds and driving rain, we set out from Los Torres, but gave up after an hour and returned to camp, impossible conditions. Day two was a contrast, sunny, blue sky, no wind, thank you hiking gods. We set out for the Italian camp site, a lazy seven hour hike, stopping along the way at Cuernos camp. Both carrying 15 kilos, and some serious uphill climbs, it was not easy. Cuernos was simply amazing, what a location, have never seen its equal, it seemed surreal walking into such a spot. Waterfalls, the snow capped peaks, and a little bar on the hill. Stopped for a break, before the last 2 hours uphill to the Italian camp site. Nothing was left in the tank, were it not for the South American boot camp instructor Bellinda Kontominas, we would not have made it. Torres del Paine has taught me one thing, I am old.  

Camp site day one

Lunch on route to Cuernos day two

The Italian camp site

Minus two or three who cares